Every spring I excitedly await morel season which starts in early May here in California. Morels grow at high elevations just as the snow melts and the ground warms up. They will also grow well in areas that have been logged or where there has been a fire. We pour over weather reports, track wildfires from previous years and decide when to go. Some years we find the motherlode, others we strike out. No matter what, we have a good weekend camping and sharing good food.
Morels pair well with spring vegetables such as English peas, fava beans and asparagus. Cream, butter and soft mild cheeses highlight their earthiness and I love to combine them with smoky foods too such as smoked trout or hot smoked salmon.
Recipe:
½ lb fresh morels*
1oz (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter
½ teaspoons kosher salt and 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper plus more to taste if needed
1½ cups heavy cream
½ cup creme fraiche
2 large egg plus 1 egg yolk
For garnish:
1 tablespoon chopped chives
½ cup cooked fresh or frozen English peas
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Clean the morels thoroughly, rinsing quickly under cold water if needed. Allow to dry on some paper towels for a few minutes.
Melt the butter in a pan. Add the morels to the pan and cook until they have released any moisture. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon fresh ground white pepper. Allow the morels to cool slightly. Remove 8 nice looking morels (or ½ morels if they are large) to use as a garnish. Roughly chop the remaining morels.
Place the cooled, chopped morels in a blender. Add ¼ cup the cream and puree. Add more cream if necessary to blend the morels. Place the morel mixture into a bowl. Add the rest of the cream and the creme fraiche and whisk to combine. Then beat the eggs and egg yolk in a small bowl and add to the cream mixture. Season with some more salt and pepper. Taste!
Pour the custard mixture into 8 x 6oz ramekins or other small heat-proof bowls. Place in a roasting pan or baking dish. Add enough boiling water to come halfway up the ramekins or cups. Cover with foil and place in the preheated oven. Bake for 20-25 minutes. The custard should jiggle a little in the center when they are done.
Remove the custards from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Top with the English peas and chopped chives. It can be served warm or room temperature.
*If fresh morels are unavailable, use 1 cup (1oz) dried morels, reconstituted
The custard can be baked in one large dish but it will take longer to bake 45-50 minutes.
Serve it as a dip with crackers - so delicious!